The Best Runway Looks at Paris Couture Fashion Week SS19
Updated: Mar 6, 2019
Spring Summer Couture Fashion Week featured the frothy, feathered, frilly and completely fantastical fashion! Here's my summary of some of the most breathtaking moments from the latest round of Haute Couture shows in Paris.
From Chanel and Dior to Valentino Elie Saab, take a look at some of the dreamiest artistry at the SS19 Haute Couture fashion week shows.
For Spring Summer 2019, Chanel, the French fashion house, welcomed show attendees into a summery, sun-filled 'Villa Chanel', complete with swimming pool and palm trees. As ever the expected tweed and intricately embroidered dresses were on display as well as an abundance of sequins and feathers. The finale look was a bride wearing an embellished swimsuit, matching swim cap over her veil.
Maria Grazia Chiuri was inspired by circus depictions in Richard Avedon’s Dovima with Elephants, which was shot in the Cirque d’Hiver August 1955.
Mimbre Acrobats, London’s all-women circus acrobats, dressed in monochrome, custom made Dior playsuits, twisted and turned each other to create a double-height figures, with one woman standing on the shoulders of another. This choreography was a reference to the empowerment of women statement from the Spring Summer 2018 Dior RTW show, where slogan t-shirts were emblazoned with 'We should all be feminists'.
When the show began the acrobats formed a human archway for the models who followed them on to the catwalk at the Musée Rodin.
Aside from the dreamy, expected, floor length gowns, caged crinoline dresses, sheer jumpsuits and glittery dresses, my favorite looks were the female ringmasters wearing cutaway tailcoats, greatcoats and the detail of military jacket frogging (ornamental braiding and fastening) adorned on jackets and coats. One look which I couldn't stop looking at came early on in the show. An exquisite tailored ivory satin three-piece suit, androgynous in style yet undeniably sensual.
Next week, the largest Dior retrospective opens at the Victoria and Albert Museum, in London, 'Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams', spans from 1947 to the present day, an exhibition which demonstrates the history and impact of one of the 20th century most influential couturiers. What Maria Grazia Chiuri, the first woman in its 70 year history to take the reigns at Dior, showcased today was how Dior is as relevant to the future of fashion as it is to its history.
The Viktor and Rolf show took on a more modern interpretation, inspired by memes. Large print slogans were juxtaposed onto romantic, over-sized yet intricately designed tulle gowns. 'Go fuck yourself', 'No' 'No photos please' and more, were sewn onto an otherwise signature and playful, Viktor and Rolf collection. Naturally the banality of social media captions took the internet by storm. A clever move for the brand. Although, for me, as much as I want fashion to create statements, push boundaries and document time, I think there were more words that could've been displayed. Perhaps, Be Kind, Equality for All, and Love would have brought a more positive and poignant statement on the times we are living in.
One of the most talked about shows was Valetino. This show was so beautiful that it brought a tear to the eye of Celine Dion, sitting front row. Pierpaolo Piccioli, Creative Director, once again demonstrated how well he can work fashion magic. Think , magical, fairy-tale tiered gowns, intricate embroidery, soft and sugary hues, exaggerated volume and three-dimensional floral headwear! One of my personal favorite's was a sequined tiered gown in Chartreuse. It sparkled like diamonds when the sequins caught the light.
Elie Saab's couture collections never disappoint and this 'Under the Sea' inspired collection certainly wowed the crowd once again!
I loved the asymmetric draped evening dresses in Saab Couture collection. with a hint of embroidery featured on the side of the hip. Sheer tulle dresses were embroidered in blue and silvery hue sequins and beads. perfectly pretty sheer pleated tulle, organza, and iridescent taffeta piece. Coral motifs were embroidered on ballgowns with a metallic belt to nip in the waist and add a hint of structure. Expect to see a flurry of Elie Saab at the Oscars..because this collection was breathtaking.
Mr Armani presented an Art Deco-inspired Jazz Age collection. Beaded flapper hats were the accessory to a fabulously fringed collection featuring vibrant bolts of blues, reds and purple and bold zig-zag and polka-dot prints. The collection was a feast of feathers, sequins, patent leather and crystals. Another inspiration was Chinese lacquer, the high shine enhanced the collection in a cool and contemporary way.