• Spoken with Style

The Best Runway Looks at New York Fashion Week Fall 2019

Updated: Mar 5, 2019

For a Brit I see NYFW as the commercial fashion week. Less fairy tale more realism, NYFW is straight talking. It doesn't pretend we are there for a fantasy, there's a job to be done and that's to sell the clothes to real women up and down the country. If you want to feel like the model on the runway you can only achieve that if you buy the clothes they are wearing.


Take a look at my favorite looks from the Fall Winter 2019 RTW shows.


Brock Collection FW19

Laura Vassar and her husband Kristopher Brock founded their women’s ready-to-wear line Brock Collection in 2013. The Californian couple, known for their signature tailoring and draping techniques, met while they were both studying fashion at Parsons. Their label desires to create wearable luxury pieces with a focus on fabric and shaping. The designers choose only a few fabrics to work with each season, from the finest mills in Italy and France.


What I admire most about the Brock Collection is the unashamed, grown up femininity of their collections, of course there were florals and ruffles for Fall and also heart prints and tiered skirts.


Their signature silhouettes were expected and delivered, they know what their customer base desires. Waist defining peplums, bustier dresses and the vintage looking dresses made from antique prints. My favorite looks came at the beginning in monochromatic tweeds. A tiered cotton dress was belted with a tweed blazer. These heavier, separates were looks I can see my clients wearing to the office or dressed down with jeans and a pair of their covetable tweed boots.


Cushnie


Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs co-founded Cushnie after meeting at Parsons. Ochs left the decade-long partnership in 2018 and Carly Cushnie was announced as chief creative officer. The brand is known for creating sleek, minimalist collections with a sophisticated sexiness. True to form, this collection was no different. With just the right draping and silhouettes, the fall collection oozed a bold sensuality. Inspiration was Paul Poiret’s 1920s archives, particularly his Japanese-inspired silhouettes. I loved so much about this collection, from the textures, the jewel tone hues and Cushnie's sumptuous signature draping and fluid silhouettes, embellished with the angular shapes of ikebana, (Japanese art of floral arranging). Standouts included a navy velvet suit adorned with beaded floral designs, an asymmetric one shoulder mini-dress with tassel scarf details and beautiful print body con dresses. Once again the brand delivers a rich, elegant and sophisticated sexiness for Fall.




Khaite


After an impressive backstory with her own line and roles at Gap and Vera Wang, Catherine Holstein launched Khaite, Greek for Long Hair, in 2016. In a few years the brand attracted the attention of the influential and global fashion stockists including, Matches Fashion and Lane Crawford.


The brand offers a considered balance of feminine and masculine styled clothes which combine softness with strength, structure with fluidity, and classic with contemporary. It's masterful when a brand can achieve beauty from opposing aesthetics.


I loved the setting for Khaite's show. Staged inside St Ann's Warehouse in Brooklyn, golden leaves paved the runway and it was satisfying to hear the crunching of the leaves when the models walked. A sound which embodies the essence of fall. The collection was titled, The New Frontier, inspired by the "ingenuity, strength, and audacity of women in America," this gave her the idea to focus the collection on staple American separates, from poplin shirts, and denim jeans to fringed jackets and suede pants. I loved the brand's evening wear approach with tulle gowns cinched with western belts. Holstein made the right call with this collection, focusing on day wear, showing the new accessory and shoe line and proving that staple basics are the foundation of a well-thought out American brand.




Brandon Maxwell